Kodaikanal: Feels like home

This weekend was a welcome break from after some intense work over the last month- a group of 9 of us students ventured to Kodaikanal, a town way up in the Palni Hills, part of the Western Ghats range in Tamil Nadu (west of Thanjavur). I wasn't sure what to expect, as I heard a variety of estimates of the weather ranging from high 90s to rainy and 60s... I packed a variety of clothes, and was thankful for the few long-sleeved items and rain jacket since a mild, chilly and damp terrain greeted us. We managed to catch a beautiful sunset as we approached the base of the hills, but missed out on the scenery as we swerved around incessant curves, climbing ever higher for nearly 2 hours- finally we saw lights going up and down the hillside and into the valley below. We stayed at the Dalethorpe guest house, where the very kind owner greeted us enthusiastically. We were all surprised at the chill and the damp in the air, and I was excited because it felt so much like Oregon! It was nice to be cold and make myself at home in the little cabin behind the guesthouse, fireplace included! We awoke the next day to a chilly and grayish morning, eating omelettes and limitless toast provided by our gracious host. Kodaikanal is known for it's tremendous trees, waterfalls, and other natural wonders, so we set off to explore with the guesthouse owner as our guide. We drove up the hills to a trailhead guarded by monkeys (luckily they weren't being scary) and leading down to a small waterfall. It was disheartening to see trash on the trail and even in the water, but I tried to let it slide so I could enjoy the experience- being in the woods, not being hot, and listening to flowing water made me perfectly content. I even discovered some recognizable plants- sourgrass (a.k.a. oxalis), stinging nettles, ferns... again, it made me nostalgic for Oregon. We continued downstream and saw several other small waterfalls, took pictures, and enjoyed the little bit of rain along the way. After that hike we continued to another trail further up the road. We traversed beneath tall and spindly eucalyptus trees and next to a rock wall protecting a pear orchard, and occasionally got glimpses of the lush green mountainsides beyond the trees. We approached a clearing and, despite the misty haze, we could see towering mountains all around us, abundant forests descending into a vibrant valley- it was incredible. We all grew silent and approached the edges of the cliff, wearily peering down the steep drop into the abyss. I got a little dizzy as I approached the edge, the sheer height was hard to comprehend. As I peered over I discovered a tiny waterfall deep in the valley and wished I'd brought a parachute so I could drop down and see it up close. As the clouds grew darker we headed back toward the car and proceeded to get completely drenched over the hour walk. It was nice to have a hot lunch, complete with a cafe au lait and pizza, to warm up after the rain. I explored the town a bit, discovering some fun craft and jewelry stores, and even a restaurant/hotel called the Astoria! Needless to say I was excited. It was strange to be in a more touristy area than Thanjavur- seeing white people was a strange phenomenon, and having tourist attractions like paddle boats and even "Fun Park" - complete with zorb ball (not sure what that is) and shooting sports (yikes)- made me confused about where I was.
The next day involved more hiking- returning to the amazing place on the cliffs, and then proceeding further to hike down to Dolphin's Nose- a rock outcrop overlooking the same valley but from a different angle. The trail was a tough one, with sharp declines, rocky terrain, and even a long stretch of "steps" composed of elaborate root systems. It was beautiful, though, and the views from the ridge, although scary at times, were amazing. After wearing ourselves out, we ate at a Punjabi restaurant (north Indian cuisine), where I was excited to have chana masala (spicy chickpea curry) with vegetable-stuffed Kulcha (delicious tandoori-oven-toasted flatbread). Needless to say, I ate to my heart's (or at least my stomach's) content. Lunch was followed by a stroll around Coaker's Walk, a brick pathway along the mountain ridge built in 1872- again, more amazing views of the mountains and valleys, along with a nice glimpse of the town from afar. Some of us explored the lakeside as well, which was beautiful despite the heavy traffic and numerous vendors surrounding it. I was so happy to get to see yet another diverse piece of India, and to experience cold and rain after a long month of relentless heat. And since I love food, I should also mention our excitement at discovering that Kodaikanal is known for their handmade chocolates, and also some fruits that are hard to find elsewhere such as avocado, starfruit, mangosteen, and pears- all to my taste buds' delight!
The trip home was just as stunning- coming down the mountain in the daytime was exhilarating, seeing the endless forest and dramatic plunges into deep valleys- I tried not to think about the narrow road and the often frightening driving conditions. We passed Rat's Tail falls- a very narrow and insanely tall waterfall that I would have missed if I hadn't been so excitedly eyeing the scenery. Truly some amazing places that I'm thankful to have the opportunity to see.